The selection of materials is widely acknowledged as a cornerstone of success across numerous disciplines, including architecture, design, art, textiles, and engineering. The efficient utilisation of materials is paramount, not only for aesthetic considerations but also, crucially, for the environmental footprint of the final product. While traditionally, materials derived from animal sources (leather, silk, wool, exotic hides, feathers) and petroleum-based substances have been prevalent, the increasing awareness of sustainability has spurred a growing demand for high-performance, animal-free alternatives.
The Shift Towards Next-Generation Materials
Consumers and brands alike are actively seeking next-generation materials capable of meeting critical needs such as sustainability, performance, aesthetics, scalability, and affordability. However, the supply chain and production conditions necessary to fully satisfy this demand are not yet entirely mature.
According to the Material Innovation Initiative’s report, the sustainable materials sector attracted $1.29 billion in investment between 2015 and 2021, with $504 million of that total invested in 2020 alone. These figures underscore the rapidly increasing interest and investment in this domain. The same report highlights the active operation of 74 next-generation material companies, 49 of which are in the vegan leather category. The diversity of raw materials used in vegan leathers is also remarkably broad. The fact that 38 of the top 40 fashion brands are actively exploring next-generation materials further emphasizes the significance of this transformation.
Nature-Inspired Innovation: Biomimicry
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Drawing inspiration from nature is becoming increasingly common in the production of next-generation materials. Biomimicry, the practice of emulating nature’s systems and processes to create innovative solutions, is at the forefront of this movement. A striking example of this approach is the way new-generation leather materials mimic the interconnected collagen network of animal hide to enhance their strength and durability. Similarly, new-generation silks derive their elasticity by replicating the silk protein and continuous fibre structure. The concept of biomimicry was first introduced to a wider audience by Janine Benyus in her seminal 1997 book, “Biomimicry: Innovation Inspired by Nature.”
Next-generation materials are categorised based on their diverse sources and production methods:
Plant-Based: These materials are derived from unprocessed plant matter or agricultural waste/by-products. For convenience, fungus (fruiting bodies) and algae inputs are also included in this category, despite not being plants.
Example: Orange Fiber produces fabric from orange juice pulp and waste.
Example: Desserto creates leather from cactus leaves.
Mycelium-Based: These materials utilise the root-like structure of certain fungi species called mycelium. The unique structure of mycelium offers significant potential for producing durable and sustainable materials.
Example: Mycoworks and MycoTech.Lab are pioneering companies in the production of leather from mushrooms.
Microbe-Based: This category encompasses materials that utilise cellular engineering approaches, such as cell culture or fermentation processes, to produce products like proteins and biopolymers 1 for new-generation material formulations.
Cultured Animal Cells: This refers to materials produced using tissue engineering approaches to grow animal cell structures in a laboratory setting. This field holds significant potential regarding animal welfare and sustainability.
Recycled Material: These materials primarily utilise recycled plastic or textile raw materials as their main input, embodying the principles of a circular economy.
Example: The German brand Nat-2 produces leather shoes using coffee grounds.
Example: Recork manufactures shoe soles and sustainable materials from corks.
Blended: This category includes materials that utilise a mixture of components not well-captured by any of the above categories.
In addition to the development of sustainable materials, the recycling of existing materials is also of paramount importance. A recently announced fibre-to-fibre recycling technology could represent a significant turning point for the textile industry. Researcher Yang states that their developed technology has found a way to extract dyes without damaging the dyes or the fibre polymers. This allows not only for the successful recycling of fibres but also for the recovery of solvents and dyes used in the process.
Yang notes that this technology is a first in textile recycling and that they are pursuing a patent for it. Various published articles demonstrate the successful application of this technology to a wide range of fibres, including cotton, cotton-polyester blends, acrylics, wool, and even carpets.
Yang’s latest article, published in Resources, Conservation and Recycling, applies the technology to used denim, demonstrating that the system can successfully remove vat dyes from textiles and produce artificial cellulose fibres with better properties than those made using wood pulp. The research also indicates that the process is economically viable and scalable. Yang’s research team aims to minimise the environmental costs of the textile sector and enhance its sustainability, focusing on both improving recycling and creating new textiles from agricultural waste such as chicken feathers.
Material innovation holds the potential to revolutionise design, architecture, art, textiles, and engineering as we move towards a more sustainable future. Next-generation materials, offering alternatives to animal-derived and petroleum-based options, are reducing environmental impact while meeting aesthetic and performance expectations. With the latest advancements in textile recycling, the principles of a circular economy are also being strengthened. In the future, sustainable and innovative materials are expected to play an increasingly crucial role in the world of design.
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